ATE, PRAYED, LOVED- Two weeks of falling in love with Bali
WHERE
Bali is an island and province of Indonesia.
It is located at the westernmost end of the Lesser Sunda Islands,
between Java to the west and Lombok to the East.
Quick facts 
Capital: Denpasar
Population: 4.2 million (1.7% of Indonesia’s population)
Area: 5,780 sq km
Major languages: Balinese, Sasak, Indonesian, English
Major religions: Balinese Hinduism (90%), Buddhism & Christianity (10%)
Ethnicity: Balinese (90%) Javanese (7%) Baliaga (1%) Maudurese (1%)
Currency: Indonesian Rupiah
Length of time in Bali: 2 weeks
Itinerary
Due to my relatively short length of stay in Bali,
I decided to keep my schedule here short and sweet and chose only to visit a few places.
The next few months I will be in full backpacker mode exploring OZ and NZ so wanted some relaxation time before the chaos ensues.
SANUR > UBUD > LOVINA
Overview
Bali is without a doubt my most favourite place I have visited so far on my trip.
I was instantly enamoured with the country within hours of being in it.
The Balinese are friendly, warm and generous people with a great sense of humour.
The way of life in Bali is very chilled and relaxed, not to mention immensely spiritual.
Being on my own here has given me the respite I needed to reflect on my travels, contemplate my future and recharge my batteries.
The past few months have been a whirlwind of activity and I’ve found myself craving some down time to relax and muse over all my adventures.
Bali has helped me to process my trip; to take stock of the wonderful places I’ve visited and the valuable lessons and insights I have gained.
I’ve enjoyed having the freedom to explore places at leisure and indulge some of my all time favourite activities; reading, writing and stuffing my face!
In true Elizabeth Gilbert style, I have chosen to review my time in Bali according to her three important virtues:
Bali is a foodie’s paradise. I don’t think I have eaten this well, E-V-E-R!
Whilst there are plenty local Balinese foods to try, there is also an abundance of yogi hangouts serving wonderful organic dishes, as well as a large choice of top quality international restaurants. I’ve enjoyed a bit of everything!
1. BABI GULING (suckling pig)
Babi guling, or suckling pig, is one of Bali’s most celebrated dishes. The pig is stuffed and infused with traditional spices, usually involving turmeric, coriander seeds, lemongrass, black pepper and garlic, and generally spit-roasted over hot coals.
Historically, Babi guling was only served at special religious celebrations though now is available at a range of warungs across the country.
Ibu Oka 3 is widely accepted as the best place to try babi guling in Bali. Located down a side street by the Royal Palace in Ubud, Ibu Oka 3 Serves around 5-6 pigs daily and opens 11:00 until they run out, which is usually at about 15:00.
For 30,000 rupiah (£1.40) I was served a generous portion of meat and crackling, covered by a dollop of spicy sauce. It was delicious and puts many hog roasts in the UK to shame!
I was majorly amused by the pig theme which runs throughout the restaurant-
I mean check out the sinks!
Got to appreciate attention to detail!
2. Crispy duck
Although I didn’t have the prized smoked duck, I more than enjoyed my visit to Bebek Bengil in Ubud.
I opted instead for the crispy fried duck which came with saffron rice and an assortment of pickles and vegetables.
The setting of the restaurant is beautiful; an idyllic garden with ponds of lilies and candle light decorations. I had a wander around the grounds before my meal; admiring the many traditional bamboo pondoks (raised huts with long table and cushions) looking out over the rice fields.
3. Jaffle
One of the things I enjoyed most about my homestay experience in Ubud was the suprise breakfast I would be cooked each morning by my host family. I would wander sleepily from my room and be greeted with a different assortment of brunch foods daily. One morning I was served my first Balinese jaffle.
A jaffle is a toasted sandwich made using a jaffle iron (like a toatsie).
I had a banana jaffle, which was cooked in a salty butter. Jaffles can be both sweet or savoury.
My morning homestay views!
4. Black Rice Pudding
A couple of times during my stay I have had the joy of dining on black rice pudding for afters.
It’s a traditional Indonesian dessert consisting of sweetened, pandan infused black rice with fruit (usually banana) and generous lashings of thick, coconut cream.
It’s served either hot or cold (I’ve had both) and is majorly tasty.
IMO it’s the strongest contender for best Asian dessert, second to mango sticky rice- my all time fave 
5. Tea 
Whilst in Bali I have developed a worrying dependency upon iced lemon tea. I am literally addicted. It’s practically a necessity though, as the mid-day heat here is brutal.
I’m not a fan of either sweet or milky drinks so ice tea suits me perfectly.
I’m also growing increasingly fond of ginger tea- largely because this is served after most massages (of which I’ve had plenty!).
….And the reSt
Like I said, I’ve dined on a huge variety of culinary treats whilst in Bali.
Yoga retreats and organic cafes are prolific here and I have spent a large portion of my time soaking up their hippyish, chilled out vibe. Here’s a list of my favourite yogi hangouts:
SANUR: Manik Organik (Jl Danau Tambilingan), Gardenia Cafe (Jl Mertasari), Gecko Cafe (Jl Danau)
UBUD: Warong Sopa (Jl Sugriwa), Cafe Wayan (Wenara Wana), Sari Organik (off Jl Abagan),
Warung Taman (Jl Tirta Tawar)
LOVINA: Akar (Jl Bina Ria), Jasmine Kitchen (just off Jl Bina Ria)
Unlike the rest of Indonesia which is mostly Muslim, approximately 90% of the Balinese identify as Hindu.
In Bali, religion is a way of life.
It can be seen in almost any direction you look; from the daily tradition of customary dress, pavillion houses, flower offerings and ornate rituals, to the architecture, sculpture designs, craftwork and clothing.
It’s for these reasons I fell so hard for Bali; it’s beauty, deep spirituality and artisanship.
DAILY PRAYER OFFERING
A huge part of Balinese culture involves daily spiritual offerings to Hindu Demons and Gods.
These come in many forms; woven baskets cradling rice, incense sticks and flowers, or simply tiny portions of rice displayed on a banana leaf.
Offerings are made twice daily; once in the early morning and again in the late afternoon.
They are displayed outside all homes and businesses.
Offerings are visible on almost every Balinese street- it’s a constant struggle to avoid treading on them!
The offering ritual is hugely time-consuming.
It’s not just their distribution, but the required religious ceremony which accompanies them, in addition to their daily creation.
Depending on the size of household/ business, offering numbers can reach up to 100 per household!
The routine begins early in the morning when the offering are first made.
Women sit in small groups surrounded by flowers and banana leaves, and chat whilst weaving baskets.
The offerings are then distributed; a process requiring tradional dress (sarong and sash) with a ceremony involving the lighting of incense sticks, sprinkling of water, prayers and special hand gestures.
The Balinese also make random offerings to demons and ancestors.
For deceased relatives, offerings include items which they liked; such as favourite foods, drinks, even cigarettes!
The sights and smells of these offerings are a unique aspect of Balinese living I definitely won’t forget.
Religious Ceremonies
There is ALWAYS a religious ceremony going on in Bali. FACT. Whether it be locals dressed in traditional ceremonial clothing, women carrying baskets of fruit/flower offerings down the street, or groups gathered outside beaches and temples. It’s never ending!
The night I arrived in Ubud, I stumbled across a religious street parade when walking back to my accommodation. The whole road was blocked off by a sea of locals, many with musical devices.
This, I later came to appreciate as my first encounter with Gamelan; a traditional ensemble of Balinese music, consisting of predominantly percussive instruments.
I still have no idea of the name of the parade, but was told it was an annual event in Ubud, intended to scare off evil spirits and purify the roads.
In Balinese Hindisim good and bad spirits co-exist side by side. The Balinese pray to both so that they will be protected from all spirits. As such there’s many unpleasant-looking gargoyles with grimacing faces spooking out the place. I thought they were great!
Kecak PERFORMANCE & Trance Dance
One evening myself and a friend, went to a nearby temple to watch a traditional Balinese Kecak performance. I had heard that this was a must-do when in Bali so went with high expectations and left feeling totally awed.
Kecak is a form of Balinese dance-drama that was developed in the 1930s, also referred to as the “monkey chant dance”.
Performers communicate the story of Sita, the beautiful wife of the god Rama, and her abductor, Ravana, the lustful evil demon using a traditional Balinese style of dance. The story is expressed by beautiful costumes and a series of wildly exaggerated gestures using the fingers, hands, head and eyes. It is dynamic, angular and intensely expressive.
There is no orchestra or backdrop to accompany the drama, only the polyrhythmic sound of the human voice.
All the time a choir of a hundred men or more circle the dancers, swaying, standing, reaching, squatting, writhing as one, close physical proximity to each other, continuously moving and chanting “cak, cak, cak”.
The chorus is incessant and fast-paced, broken continually by individual high pitched or down beat voices which serve to narrate the Hindu story. It is a beguiling experience.
The costumes are beautiful.
I particularly liked the outfit of the monkey general and the magical bird.
The final act of the show was a God-inspired trance-dance called the Sanghyang.
The version we saw was “Djaran” meaning horse.
In this performace the “horse rider” is lulled into a trance by the repetitive chants of the voice orchestra. In a warped-like state he walks barefoot on a bed of burning coconut husks.
With each kick, a thousand sparks would scintillate in the darkness; embers carpeting the floor in a gigantic starry constellation. It was mesmerising. By the end of the performance the rider laid exhausted on the floor; the soles of his blackened feet upturned for the crowd to applaud.
There was so much I loved about Bali,
(but this post is long enough already!)
I’ve already spoken about how much I adored the relaxed Balinesse lifestyle and Hindu culture, but I also cherished the way I was surrounded by nature on this trip. I stayed in some beautiful guest houses and home stays with fantastic pools, gardens and balconies, nestled in tranquil rural scenery. I had an unforgettable Balinese massage overlooking the rice terraces in Ubud, and a magical experience in North Bali when I went dolphin spotting with locals early one morning and on a snorkelling trip to Lovina Bay.
Here’s a visual taster!
Rice paddies
BALINESSE MASSAGE
Guest houses/ home stays
Dolphins
Snorkelling
And finally…People who touched my heart:
The taxi drive who, late at night, made sure I got to my hostel safely when I was given the wrong address.
…and the driver of my hostel who came to collect me.
The same man who chatted on the phone to my mother, gifted me a herbal remedy for my itchy bites and drove me to Ubud whilst singing songs in English and Balinese.
The grandmothers who sat on the porch tirelessly constructing their prayer offerings.
The smiley local girl who wanted to practice her English with me on the beach.
The men who helped me cross the road when stray dogs wouldn’t let me pass.
And the countless others who took an interest in my trip, made me feel welcome in the country, and were so friendly I almost forgot I wasn’t at home.