Ban Kwan Chang Elephant Park

Ban Kwan Chang Elephant Park, Ko Chang

Elephants and Thailand 🐘🌏

Used historically in the battles against the Burmese and for logging purposes, elephants have been revered in Thai culture for centuries. These former beast of burden are a major draw for holiday makers and provide a huge source of the countries tourism (You see elephant themed clothing and mementos all over the place).

Everyone who comes to Thailand wants THAT holiday picture – themselves riding atop of an elephant looking adventuorus. Despite the popular ‘money shot’, I was unsure whether this was something I wanted to do during my time in Thailand. Elephant tourism is an ethical minefield and there are many grey areas.

Maltreatment

Stories of captive elephant mistreatment and abuse are well documented. Brutal training methods are used to torture elephants and break their spirits; a process called Phajaan (“The Crush”). It involves baby elephants being confined, beaten and starved into submission. I was completed resolved that I would not pay to see any elephant take part in a show; elephant painting, and other popular stage performances seem unjustifingly demeaning and cruel. My dilema was more whether elephant treking would be similarly babarous and unmoralistic.

ELEPHANT Parks, Ko Chang

Ko Chang island has several elephant parks. Interestingly “Chang” means “elephant” and “Koh” island (though this specifically refers to the size and shape of the land mass, rather than the prescence of native elephants on the island).

On driving to my hotel I had passed two of these so called “parks” and they looked dreadful. Elephants were chained up by the side of the busy mainland road, with no freedom or stimulation,  in a proximity to humans that was neither natural nor peaceful. My heart sank.

I spoke to some local expats on the island later that night and quized them on the elephant park situaion in Ko Chang. They described the deprived state of most camps (like the ones I’d seen on the roadside) though told me if I wanted to spend quality time with elephants I should go visit Ban Kwan Chang.

Ban Kwan Chang

Started some 15 years ago, Ban Kwan Chang, is a small elephant camp located in the interior of the island away from the hustle and bustle of the coastal villages.

The park initially began with 2 elephants on a small  piece of land near the main road to Klong Phu waterfalls, but was soon relocated to the forest after it became apparent that the busy traffic upset the residents.

Today Ban Kwan Chang is home to 10 elephants, all former workers and entertainers, now retired and is associated with the Asian Elephant Foundation. I decided this was a camp I would like to visit.

My morning with the elephants!  

I opted to see the park with a tour company and so was picked up from my hotel and joined by a small group of other travellers. Again I got lucky and spent the morning with a really fun party- a twenty something German lady from my hotel and a father of 3 with his teenage daughter and 2 young sons, also German.

Breakfast 🍍🍈🍍

The elephant experience began with a light breakfast of fruit whilst other visitors checked in and organzised themselves. We were casually snacking on pineapple and drinking coconuts  when the herd of elephants walked past- even though we were knowingly at an Elephant Park it still felt incredibly surreal.

Passengers ride the elephant by sitting on a two seater ‘chair’ that is lightly strapped to the elephant’s back. The seated structure is made out of rusting metal poles with a plastic covered mat on top. I had zero confidence that the seat would remain intact during our venture into the jungle, and every vision that I would fall out of the contraption and break every bone in my body with a big SPLAT. (One of the German boys found it hilarious to taunt me about this the entire trip!)

The manhout (elephant caretaker) sat behind the animal’s head, climbing on top of the gigantic mammal with ease. Myself and the German girl, Chiara, after much shuffling and nervous laughter, hopped into our seat. I was super conscious not to move about too much for fear of hurting the elephant and was careful where I placed my body and feet. We rode an elephant called “Si Fa” meaning “Blue Sky”- which seemed appropriate as there wasn’t a cloud to be seen.

The trek 🌴🐘🌴

Once on the elephants,we began our trek into the natural forest of rubber trees. The route we took was precarious in places and involved trekking down rocky slopes and water pools.

It was so hot and sweaty that the plastic sheeting we were sat on became super slippy. It was virtually impossible to remain seated in one place. Numerous times I nearly slid under the bars, holding on tightly with one hand the other firmly grasping my camera and bag of valuable things.  I wanted to scream but couldn’t due to the distress this would cause the elephant. I also got ‘attacked’ by a huge flying insect which persistently flew into my body and face!!! #DRAMA

Bullhooks 🔨😱

The elephant was mostly compliant in her adherence to both the route and pace of the trek, although there were times when she would pause and refuse to move. During these moments, the manhout would use his legs to gently squeeze the elephant (like how you would a horse) and use verbal commands to encourage compliance.

I was slightly horrified by the fact all the mahouts had bullhooks (sticks with sharened ends used to punish and control elephants). During my time at the camp I did not see any mahouts use their hook to inflict pain; however there were occassions when these were used to goad the animals (light tapping used to cause mild physical discomfort). This practice made me feel  uneasy and caused me to wonder whether the bull hooks would be used with force if the elephant continued to be non-compliant. Irrespective of the fact the bullhooks were not used for punishment, their mere presence is still condonable, as bullhooks are  vehicles of fear and phychological scaring.

Elephant Bath! 🐘💦💧

Following our hour of trekking we then got to bathe and swim with two elephants in a small river, a 7 minute walk from camp. For me this was the most memorable part of the experience. We each took it in turns to get in the water with the animals and were given scrubbing brushes to clean the elephants head, back and ears- which they appeared to really enjoy.

One elephant decided to get up and stroll about abit with the German girl still on it’s back- she seemed elated (I would’ve been petrified!) They squirted water with their trunks and seemed relaxed.

I also got to chat with a mahout who I belive was the camp owner. He spoke with great respect and admiration about the animals on the island. It filled me with greater confidence that the camp was a restful haven for these working elephants, one where they were cared for and not tortured.

Overall, I am pleased I went to Ban Kwan Chang.  The camp was quiet, secluded and immersed in the natural surroundings of the forest. I saw no bruality towards the animals, who all seemed relatively contented. This said I still feel conflicted about my choice to ride the elephants. I intend to educate myself more on the matter by visiting a well known and respected elephant sanctuary in Chiang Mai. Hopefully this will provide me with the information I need to properly appraise Ban Kwan Chang as a “retreat”.