The Streets are alive with the Sights of Songkran
As I was wandering the streets of Bangkok today, my fourth visit to the city in two months, a thought suddenly struck me:
I NEVER TOLD YOU GUYS ABOUT SONGKRAN!!!
Songkran, is the traditional Thai New Year’s Day and is celebrated from April 13 to April 15. It’s basically one massive water fight which lasts 3 days. I repeat- a national water fight that lasts THREE. WHOLE. DAYS. Please, take a moment to process this.
History
The word Songkran is Sanskrit in origin (traditional Indian language of Buddhism and Hinduism) which translates to the passage of sun from one sign of the zodiac to another. Technically there are 12 “songkrans” in the year, but the “Major Songkran” is when the sun enters the sign of the Ram (Aries).
Songkran, like most celebrations of New Year, is all about fresh starts. The water being symbolic of cleansing and purification; both physically and spiritually. Kind of fitting then that I should begin my adventure during this celebration; moreso given that my star sign is Aries! #Destiny
Making a Splash!
The most famous aspect of Songkran is the water throwing, symbolising the spring cleaning values of the festival. Historically, this ritual involved using water to clean images of Buddha, which would then be used to soak others afterwards. This act is believed to bring good fortune and is considered a sign of respect.
April is also the hottest month of the year in Thailand- so the water is a blessing in more ways than one! (I can’t stress how unbearably hot and humid it gets here! Like, actually, meltinggg)
Modern Songkran
Nowadays, Songkran has evolved to include water-guns! I’m not talking cutsey little water pistols either, more like super soaking water- drenching machines. I feel like your choice of weapon projects your ambitions as a person. (I chose a 3l gun, with additional pumping action!)
Like many things, it was novel and exciting to begin with but after a couple of days (*okay, a day) my enthusiam started to dwindle a bit! The celebrations really do last the full 3 days and are relentless.
Looking back, I made 3 school boy errors…
ERROR #1
“Once I get my soaking fix, I can happily resume my tourist ways”
WRONG! THERE IS NO SIGHT SEEING DURING SONGKRAN, FOOL!!
It’s pretty tricky to sight-see during Songkran; virtually impossible to do this soak-free!
Being a religious celebration, Wats are packed during the period of celebrations and many establishments are closed. Bangkok in particular empties, as it’s residents vacate the city to spend Songkran with their families.
Though there are designated “party” areas (namely Silom and Khaosan) any street you walk down during Songkran you are fair pickings.
Which brings me nicely onto my 2nd point…
ERROR #2
“Sukumvit is full of expats. I will be safe here. I can venture into the city for Songkran then come back to my hotel to retreat”
WRONG!
I decided to book a hotel for Songkran on Sukhumvit Soi 11. Why? I like the area. Plus Soi 11 receives great reviews for it’s cool pubs, funky bars and central location! During Songkran?
Did someone say WATER PARTY STREET?!
That’s right. It’s the heart of Sukhumvit Songkran festivities. I was not prepared for this.
Celebrators congregate outside the restaurants and bars, armed with not only with supersoakers, but huge vats of water (often containing ice!) and hosepipes… BOTH sides of the street. There is no avoiding this, your only option? Accept yo’fate!
ERROR #3 – “HOPE”
“I can enjoy Songkran on my own terms”.
I thought if I wore a nice dress, dicthed the water gun and smiled sweetly I would be spared a soaking.
First Rule of Songkran-there are no rules to Songkran!
REGARDLESS OF HOW MUCH YOU PLEAD,
THERE SHALL BE NO MERCY.
PERIOD.
“The Watershed”
Casing point being my trip to the night bazzar “Asiatique”.
Having particpated in Songkran for two days, I wanted to explore the sights near the river and grab something nice to eat. Away from my street I had seen people on the BTS wearing everyday attire, looking normal, looking….DRY?!! My heart filled with hope *cue Error #3*- I dared to dream…
I showered, put on make-up and dug out my least backpacker outfit from my rucksack. Hopeful, I walked down to reception, optimism beaming on my face. I’ve got this I thought to myself, I GOT DIS!
*DRUM ROLL PLEASE*
… I remained dry less than 30 seconds! I could have weeped.
A group of women yeilding buckets descended the moment I left the hotel foyer. Horor filled my eyes and I tugged pleadingly at my dress- “please no, I’m going out, nice dress, nice dress, pleaaaase no, please”.
The leader of this rabble listened to my protest, clearly not understanding a word I was saying. Her eyes quizzed mine and then lit up. A smile crossed her face- “Ahhhh I see, Baby, Baby!”
The posse ditched their initital concerns and cooed around me within seconds; sprinkling water on my dress whilst simultaneously caressing my tummy. My childless womb and I were being blessed!!!!
I considered correcting them but it all happened so quickly. Instead I just laughed. Unideal I thought, but this I can deal with; a light shower. I will dry. I am not drenched!
A few steps later and the buckets came. Two minutes, and I was sopping wet.
I got on the tube- broken; a puddle of water collecting at my feet.
Chuntering to myself, I cursed my drenchers mentally. Shame on you I thought.
SHAME ON YOUUUUU. I was filled with rage.
(*My to-the-floor dress clinging to my thighs, further adding to the shame.)
I would never have drenched another person who was so blatantly not down with the celebrations!
My anger raged inside of me for a good 15 minutes. A few stops later though (plus plenty of laughs from onlookers), I began to see the funny side.
No-one was hurt. It’s just cholera ridden water. Besides, it’s a blessing is it not? Think of all the good fortune now bestowed on you! #MakeItRaaaaiin
That’s not to say I didn’t nearly get hypothermia though. The BTS has a super efficient air con system and Asiatique is a million tube stops away.
I had no idea where the festival was, other than it being in Silom! I just hopped on the tube and let those with the water guns lead the way!
I bought a traditional floral garland to increase the authenticity of my Songkran attire and armed myself with one of the biggest waterguns I could find. (Not the largest though, I didn’t want to look too cocky!)
The streets were incredibly vibrant due to all the floral shirts, flowers and waterguns; striking and florescsent in colour. Not to mention all the fun- spirited individuals celebrating the festival too. This Songkran gang were especially effervescent and comical; gladly posing for photo the entire wak through. A joy to be around!
Songkran can also be very funny when you’re dry and waching someone else on the receiving end! On day 3, fed up of being drenched, I enlisted the help of the hotel taxi service to ensure safe voyage to the nearest BTS. I managed to get there almost bone dry, hidden by the plastic sheeting- the driver on the other hand endured bucket after bucket to THE FACE and returned wet through. I had to laugh, though I felt sooooo guilty.
Thank you taxi man!